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Customs and languages
Languages
Khmer people speak the Khmer language and use
the Khmer script, which may have a vague relationship with the Thai
language and script but is far more complicated - yet maybe easier. The
language has 26 vowels and 33 consonants. The
Khmer language does not have the tonalities that complicate Thai, Lao,
Vietnamese and Chinese to mention only some of the surrounding languages
that use tonalities for their vowel systems. Khmer script is distantly
related to Sanskrit.
Cham have their own language with Arabic script and ethnic minorities
speak entirely separate languages. Most of them are ethnically from the
austro-asian Khmer-Mon afkomstig, as are the Khmer.
Religion
Khmer
religion is not so simple to explain. It works on three levels. It depends
a bit on your definition of the word "religion".
Khmer are traditionally Buddhist but that is only part of the image.
As a matter of fact, Buddhism is not really a
religion, the Buddha is not a god, but a human who found
enlightenment. There have been four Buddhas in the history and one
more is to be expected. Buddhism will show respect to any
religion and all Gods it encounters. When the Khmers Rouges had expelled
all foreigners including Christian priests and preachers, Buddhist
monks went to burn incense and candles for the Christian Idols in
their churches and places of worship.
The other religion in Cambodia is Brahmanism, but
this religion is practised inside and through Buddhism. The respect for the King has a religious character through
the Brahman heritage.
The four faces that you encounter on monuments, temples and pagodas and on
people's houses represent Preah Prum, Lord Brahma. Lord Shiva and
Lord Vishnu are also worshiped, while thevadas will preside over
the New Year festivities.
Cambodia may be traditional Buddhist, it is
fundamentally Brahman and Cambodian Buddhism cannot be understood
without understanding the Brahman roots.
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So, now you will think that all those little temple-like houses you see
inside or at the entrance of virtually every house in Cambodia must be dedicated to
the Preah Put, Lord Buddha or to Preah Prum, Lord Brahma.
They are not. They are for the spirits, who are the real
owners of the house and with whom Khmers better make good friends lest
they seek bad fortune. Spirits are not only the owners of the land and the
house, they can also bring about good or bad luck. They are the
spirits of ancestors who still live around.
Towns and villages have their own guardian spirits.
They are often heroes from local legends or royal devotion. When travelling to
Sihanoukville, do have a stop at the place of devotion for Yey
Ma, burn
some incense for her and sprinkle some of the water over yourself or wash
your face in it. Her magical powers are famous all over Cambodia. And in Pursat,
have a stop at the monument for Nheak
Ta Okhna Khleang Moeun
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Hindu Deities have their say when good luck and bad
luck is concerned, when the powers of nature are involved, they
govern what you get out of this life, the harvest, wars and the
offerings you must make to have success in any of these things. At
the Royal court, there exists still a Brahman priest cast which
presides over traditional ceremonies such as the Royal Ploughing ceremony.
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Lord
Buddha concerns death and what comes after that, He teaches the
right way, the Preah Thoa or Dharma.
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Spirits however are what
you live with every day. They make part of your family, and you
better accommodate Them well or They will you move
out. Nothing is more real than the spirits.
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There is also magic. Some Cambodians practise magic.
Not so infrequently, people are killed, accused of having cast evil
spells.
All this said, a Cambodian will answer you without
any trace of doubt, when asked for his religion,
"Buddhist" and any difference between Preah Put and
a Deity will be inconsequential to him.
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When visiting Buddhist pagodas, take off your
shoes before you enter a temple or a vihear. Women should cover
their shoulders. Monks can be recognised by their orange or saffron togas.
It is good practice to also offer some money to the nuns, the elder ladies
in white inside the pagoda. That brings good merits, especially when
offered on one of the Buddhist special days, which fall every month
on the day before full moon and the day before new moon.
Traditional offerings are food before 11 am. After that time, offer packets of tea, sugar, cans
of condensed sugared milk, incense, candles, bottles of soda, lotus
flowers and cigarettes. Add some money.
Contrary to the Vietnamese monks, Cambodian monks do smoke,
though the word about the dangers of smoking is slowly spreading. However
they will never drive a motorbike nor even a bicycle and they will always
have someone drive them. Vietnamese monks on the contrary drive joyfully
around on their motors.
When sitting down before a monk, one should not cross the legs, but
fold them next to the body. Same position is used to pray before de Buddha
or another Idol. This is considered a sign of respect.
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Monks are only allowed to eat during the morning until 12 noon.
After that time, they can still drink but no longer eat food. It is also
considered good practise for every boy to become monk for at least a few
months, this is not compulsory as in Thailand.
In the
morning, it is polite to offer food. It will be eaten, if not by the
monks, then by the nuns, the poor and the pagoda boys. When
not in the Preah Vosa period,
monks go barefoot in the morning to beg for rice. This is to do you a favour so you do
not need to go to the pagoda every day. Cambodians offer generously to
their monks.
On a number of "special days", pagodas will be crowded. These
dates usually fall according to the lunar calendar on the day before full
moon and the day before new moon.
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Along the main rivers, you will see vast populations of ethnic Cham, an
Islam minority. Their mosques are easily distinguishable. They live in peace with
the Cambodians though they too suffered under the Khmer Rouge. As killing
animals does not bring bad merits to Islam people, fishing is mostly
practised by them and large communities live along the main rivers.
Ethnic minorities are either Animists or evangelical Christians. The
Animist branch are semi-nomadic, while the Christian ones will rather
settle in a permanent spot and mark their plots. Christianity is very
popular with minorities in Vietnam and persecution there has made many of
them settle in Cambodia. With support from their churches, they tend to be
financially more secure than the nomadic minorities. The Christian do not
believe in spirits and their disrespect for the spiritual world sometimes
upsets the others.
Festivities
The 3 most important festivities are Khmer New year, Pchum Ben and the
water festival. Other important celebrations are Chinese New year and the birth days of H.M.
the King and Queen each of which results on several vacation days. On the
7th of January, the liberation of Cambodia from the Khmer Rouge and
Independence day on 9 November are cause for more celebration. See
VanthaNet
for a
list of all official Cambodian holidays.
Alcohol
"Sra" is the Khmer word for alcohol. Rice wine is most common used
among Cambodians, often mixed with other "medicines", sometimes poisonous
substances to enhance the effect. Sometimes, snakes or geckos are put into
the alcohol to increase toxicity. Though some commercial alcohol drinks,
used for export are safe, we would advise caution when drinking local
alcoholic drinks.
There are 2 local beer brands that brew beer according to local
standards. Angkor beer is brewed is Sihanoukville by Cambrew Ldt, in which
the Danish brewery has a 50% stake. Tiger beer, the other beer brand, is
brewed in Kien Svay in the vicinity of Phnom Penh by a subsidiary of
Heineken BV
Begging
Cambodia lacks a formal social welfare system and the civil war and
landmines have maimed many Cambodians. Those maimed by landmines and
ex-soldiers often take up begging as a strategy for survival. Giving small
amounts of cash to a beggar is believed to bring merit in poverty-stricken
Buddhist Cambodia. Consequently, you will meet beggars at most places you
visit.
Giving some money to those beggars will depend on your generosity. But
one word of advice: don't give too much. A donation of 100 Riel will
already be very much appreciated.
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